Hair treatment agents containing selected fatty acid amides and selected uv filters

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to hair treatment agents including a synergistic combination of selected fatty acid amides and further selected hydroxycarboxylic acids.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention generally relates to hair treatment agents thatinclude fatty acid amides.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

There is a continuing competitive requirement to bring aboutimprovements in hair care products and to provide them with additionaladvantageous properties. In particular, there is a competitive need toprovide a conditioning complex that can ideally also be used inconjunction with oxidizing agents and surfactant agents.

Environmental influences and oxidative hair treatments often lead toimpaired combability of both dry and wet hair. Furthermore, gloss andmoisture balance are deleteriously affected by the attacked externalstructure of the keratinic fibers. A further consequence of repeatedtreatment of keratinic fibers with surfactant and/or oxidative agents isa return of severe greasiness to the keratinic fibers and a strongtendency towards increased dandruff formation.

It is therefore desirable to reduce the side-effects of environmentalinfluences and of oxidative and surfactant hair treatments preferablynot only as early as during the oxidative or surfactant hair treatmentbut also after the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment withoutimpairing the effectiveness of the oxidative or surfactant cosmeticpreparation, in particular with regard to color intensity, colorfastness, lightening performance or permanent-wave action, and ofpreventing the keratinic fibers from becoming greasy again and increaseddandruff formation. It is also desirable to combine in one applicationstep, in the form of a 2-in-1 product, the oxidative treatment ofkeratin-including fibers, in particular human hair, with the applicationof effective fiber protection from environmental influences, for exampleUV protection.

Furthermore, other desirable features and characteristics of the presentinvention will become apparent from the subsequent detailed descriptionof the invention and the appended claims, taken in conjunction with theaccompanying drawings and this background of the invention.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

A hair treatment agent includes—relative to its weight—a) 0.01 to 15 wt.% of a fatty acid amide according to formula (I)

in which R1, R2 and R3 independently of one another denote a linearbranched or unbranched C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24, more preferablyC12 to C22 and most highly preferably C12 to C18 alkyl or alkenyl group,wherein moreover R2 is preferably equal to R3 and R1 is most highlypreferably equal to R2 which is equal to R3, and n and m independentlyof one another denote integers from 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 6 and mosthighly preferably 2, 3 and/or 4, wherein most highly preferably n=m; andb) at least one UV filter in a total amount from 0.01 to 15.0 wt. %,relative to the total composition.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following detailed description of the invention is merely exemplaryin nature and is not intended to limit the invention or the applicationand uses of the invention. Furthermore, there is no intention to bebound by any theory presented in the preceding background of theinvention or the following detailed description of the invention.

Fatty acid amides are chemical compounds which are known in principleand are likewise already used as ingredients in hair care agents. UVfilters are likewise known in hair treatment agents. They are frequentlyused to protect the fibers against UV radiation. However, these knowncompositions cannot achieve the objects in a satisfactory manner. Wherereference is made below to the active agent complex, this relates to theingredients a) and b) mandatorily included in the hair treatment agentsaccording to the invention.

The active agent complex according to the invention leads to animprovement in finish, to an improvement in shine, to an improvement inmoisture balance and to protection against the destructuring ofkeratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, by UV radiation andmost particularly to protection against oxidative damage, in particularto the maintenance of hair growth, the prevention of hair loss and theprevention of grease buildup in the keratinic fibers as well as to anincrease in the washing resistance of colored keratinic fibers.

The present invention therefore firstly provides a hair treatment agentincluding—relative to its weight—

-   a) 0.01 to 15 wt. %, relative to the total composition, of at least    one fatty acid amide according to formula (I)

-   -   in which R1, R2 and R3 independently of one another denote a        linear branched or unbranched C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24,        more preferably C12 to C22 and most highly preferably C12 to C18        alkyl or alkenyl group, wherein moreover R2 is preferably equal        to R3 and R1 is most highly preferably equal to R2 which is        equal to R3, and n and m independently of one another denote        integers from 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 6 and most highly        preferably 2, 3 and/or 4, wherein most highly preferably n=m,        and

-   b) at least one UV filter in a total amount from 0.01 to 15.0 wt. %,    relative to the total composition.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention the cosmetic agentsserve to treat keratinic fibers, in particular human hair. Preferredagents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, hair coloringagents, conditioning agents or hair tonics, for example.

Feel is defined as the tactility of a group of fibers, the personskilled in the art feeling and assessing the parameters fullness andsoftness of the group of fibers by sensory means.

Shaping is understood to be the ability to change the shape of a groupof previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular humanhair. In hair cosmetics this is also referred to as styling ability.

Maintenance of the natural growth of keratinic fibers is understood tomean that the influences on natural hair growth through cosmetic hairtreatments as described above, in particular through oxidative hairtreatments, are balanced out and that there are no or at most slighteffects on the natural growth of the keratinic fibers in terms of growthin diameter, growth in length and/or in terms of hair fullness.

According to the invention an oxidative hair treatment is defined as theaction of an oxidative cosmetic agent including at least one oxidizingagent in a cosmetic carrier on hair.

The hair treatment agent including the active agent complex according tothe invention is preferably used immediately before, during or after theoxidative or surfactant hair treatment. Within the meaning of theinvention, immediately before the oxidative or surfactant hair treatmentis understood to mean an application which is followed directly by theoxidative or surfactant hair treatment, wherein the hair treatment agentincluding the active agent complex according to the invention was firstrinsed from the hair or was preferably left on the hair and the hair ispreferably still wet.

Within the meaning of the invention, after the oxidative or surfactanthair treatment is understood to mean an application which either followson directly from the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment, wherein thehair treatment agent including the active agent complex according to theinvention is applied to the preferably still wet, towel-dry hair afterrinsing off the oxidative or surfactant agent, or is applied to dry orwet hair only after several hours or days. In both cases the hairtreatment agent according to the invention can be rinsed out again aftera contact time from a few seconds up to 45 minutes or can be leftentirely on the hair.

The effect of the hair treatment agent according to the inventiondevelops during the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment itself andsurprisingly continues even after the hair treatment agent according tothe invention has been thoroughly washed out.

The active agent complex according to the invention is preferably usedin a cosmetic carrier. The cosmetic carriers can in particular beaqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. An aqueous cosmetic carrier includes atleast 50 wt. % of water. Within the meaning of the present inventionaqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are understood to be aqueoussolutions including 3 to 70 wt. % of a C₁-C₆ alcohol, in particularmethanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol,tert-butanol, n-pentanol, isopentanols, n-hexanol, isohexanols, glycol,glycerol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or1,6-hexanediol. The agents according to the invention can additionallyinclude further organic solvents, such as for example methoxybutanol,benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Allwater-soluble organic solvents are preferred here.

Constituent a) of the active agent complex according to the invention isa fatty acid amide of general formula (I)

in which R1, R2 and R3 independently of one another denote a linearbranched or unbranched C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24, more preferablyC12 to C22 and most highly preferably C12 to C18 alkyl or alkenyl group.R1 to R3 preferably denote capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl,lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl orarachidyl. Furthermore, R2 is particularly preferably equal to R3 andmost highly preferably R1 is equal to R2 which is equal to R3. Theletters n and m independently of one another denote integers from 1 to10, preferably 2 to 6 and most highly preferably 2, 3 and/or 4, whereinmost highly preferably n=m. Most highly preferably, R1 is equal to R2which is equal to R3 and is selected from capryl, caprylyl, octyl,nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl,behenyl or arachidyl and n=m=2. Most preferably, R1=R2=R3 and isselected from lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl,behenyl or arachidyl, of which cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl orbehenyl are particularly preferred, and n=m=2. The most preferredcompound of formula (I) is the one bearing the INCI nameBis-Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline) Isostearamide. This last compound iscommercially available from Croda under the trade name Keradyn® HH.

The hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably includethe fatty acid amides according to the invention in an amount from 0.01to 15.0 wt. %, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 10.0 wt. %, mostparticularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5 wt. %, most highly preferablyfrom 0.3 to 5.0 wt. %, relative in each case to the weight of theready-to-use hair treatment agent.

As the second essential ingredient b) a UV filter is included in thehair treatment agents. UV filters can be present in oil-soluble form, inwater-soluble form or in solid form as a pigment. Moreover, UV filtersare divided into UVA and UVB filters, according to their optimumefficacy.

Examples of oil-soluble substances that can be cited include:

-   -   3-benzylidene camphor, for example        3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor;    -   4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably        4-(dimethylamino)benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester,        4-(dimethylamino)benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and        4-(dimethylamino)benzoic acid amyl ester;    -   esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic        acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester,        4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamic        acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);    -   esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl        ester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid        homomenthyl ester;    -   derivatives of benzophenone, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,        2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,        2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;    -   esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzomalonic        acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;    -   triazine derivatives, such as for example        2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine        and octyl triazone;    -   propane-1,3-diones, such as for example        1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.

Suitable water-soluble substances include:

-   -   2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali,        alkaline-earth, ammonium, alkyl ammonium, alkanol ammonium and        glucammonium salts thereof;    -   sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts        thereof;    -   sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as for        example 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl)benzenesulfonic acid and        2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Derivatives of benzoyl methane are suitable in particular as typicalUV-A filters, such as for example1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione or1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-Bfilters can naturally also be used in mixtures.

In addition to the cited soluble substances, insoluble pigments, inparticular finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are suitable for thispurpose, such as for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide,aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), bariumsulfate and zinc stearate. These pigments are preferred according to theinvention, in particular as a constituent of a mixture of severalstructurally different UV filters. The particles should have an averagediameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and inparticular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical form, butsuch particles having an ellipsoid form or other form deviating from thespherical shape can also be used.

The total amount of UV filter substances in the compositions accordingto the invention, relative to the total composition, is in each case0.01 to 15.0 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 10.0 wt. %, more preferably 0.1to 10.0 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.2 to 10.0 wt. % and most highlypreferably 0.3 to 10.0 wt. %.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention furtherselected quaternary ammonium compounds are preferably used with theaforementioned required ingredients.

In principle quaternary ammonium compounds are monomeric cationic oramphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, amino amides, polymericcationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds.Of this large number of possible quaternary ammonium compounds, thefollowing groups have proved to be particularly suitable and are used ineach case in an amount from 0.1 to 15.0 wt. %. The amount remains withinthis range even if a mixture of different compounds of the quaternaryammonium compounds is used.

Cationic surfactants of formula (Tkat1-1) form the first group ofcationic surfactants.

In the formula (Tkat1) R1, R2, R3 and R4 independently of one anotherdenote hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, asaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl residue having a chain length of8 to 30 carbon atoms, which can optionally be substituted with one ormore hydroxyl groups. A denotes a physiologically acceptable anion, forexample halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.

Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyl trimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyl trimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetyl methylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethyl benzylammonium chloride, behenyl trimethylammonium chloride,behenyl trimethylammonium bromide, behenyl trimethylammoniummethosulfate.

Esterquats according to formula (Tkat2) form a preferred group.

Here residues R1, R2 and R3 are each independent of one another and canbe the same or different. Residues R1, R2 and R3 denote:

-   -   a branched or unbranched alkyl residue having 1 to 4 carbon        atoms, which can include at least one hydroxyl group, or    -   a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic        saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue having 6 to 30 carbon        atoms, which can include at least one hydroxyl group, or    -   an aryl or alkaryl residue, for example phenyl or benzyl,    -   the residue (—X—R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of residues        R1, R2 or R3 can denote this residue.

The residue —(X—R4) is included at least 1 to 3 times.

Here X denotes:

-   1) —(CH2)n- where n=1 to 20, preferably n=1 to 10 and particularly    preferably n=1 to 5, or-   2) —(CH2-CHR5-O)n- where n=1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100,    particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20    with R5 denoting hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,-   3) a hydroxyalkyl group having one to four carbon atoms, which can    be branched or unbranched and which can include at least one and at    most three hydroxyl groups. Examples are: —CH₂OH, —CH₂CH₂OH,    —CHOHCHOH, —CH₂CHOHCH₃, —CH(CH₂OH)₂, —COH(CH₂OH)₂, —CH₂CHOHCH₂OH,    —CH₂CH₂CH₂OH and hydroxybutyl residues,    and R4 denotes:-   1) R6-O—CO—, in which R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or    unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue having    6 to 30 carbon atoms, which can include at least one hydroxyl group    and which can optionally also be ethoxylated with 1 to 100 ethylene    oxide units and/or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units, or-   2) R7-CO—, in which R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or    unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue having    6 to 30 carbon atoms, which can include at least one hydroxyl group    and which can optionally also be ethoxylated with 1 to 100 ethylene    oxide units and/or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units,    and A denotes a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic    anion and is defined here also as a representative of all structures    described below. The anion of all cationic compounds that are    described here is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride,    bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO₃ ⁻, in which R    has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl residues having 1    to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic residues of organic acids such as    maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.

Such products are sold under the trademarks Rewoquat®, Stepantex®,Dehyquart®, Armocare® and Akypoquat® for example. The products Armocare®VGH-70, Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart®F-30, Dehyquart® AU-35, Rewoquat® WE18, Rewoquat® WE38 DPG, Stepantex®VS 90 and Akypoquat® 131 are examples of these esterquats.

Further compounds of formula (Tkat1-2) that are particularly preferredaccording to the invention are included in formula (Tkat2.1), cationicbetaine esters.

R8 corresponds in its meaning to R7.

The esterquats with the trade names Armocare® VGH-70 and also Dehyquart®F-75, Dehyquart® L80, Stepantex® VS 90 and Akypoquat® 131 areparticularly preferred.

In preferred agents according to the invention cationic surfactants offormula (bI) are used within relatively narrow quantity ranges, suchthat preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention arecharacterized in that they include 0.1 to 15 wt. %, preferably 0.5 to 10wt. %, more preferably 1 to 10 wt. %, still more preferably 1.5 to 10wt. % and in particular 2 to 5 wt. % of at least one compound of generalformula (I),

in which

-   n and m independently of one another denote integers between 5 and    40, with the proviso that n+m≧38; particularly preferably n=m; most    highly preferably n=m=20.-   a and b independently of one another denote integers between 1 and    10; particularly independently of one another denote 1, 2, 3, 4 or    5, wherein preferably a+2≧b≧a−2 and most highly preferably a=b=3.-   R and R′ are independently of one another selected from —H and —CH₃;    preferably R=R′, such that preferably either PEG or PPG diesterquats    are used; most particularly preferably R=R′=—CH₃.

X⁻ is a physiologically acceptable anion, a halide such as chloride,bromide or iodide, toluenesulfonate, methosulfate, etc., andparticularly preferably methosulfate.

In particular if one of the compounds of formula (I) as described aboveis used, it has been found that the care effects of the agents accordingto the invention can be further increased and in particular thestability of the agents further improved if the agents include certainacylated diamines in addition to the compound(s) of formula (I).

Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are thereforecharacterized in that they additionally include 0.1 to 10 wt. % of atleast one compound of formula (II)

in which x denotes 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24.

Compounds of formula (II) with n=20 are particularly preferred. Mosthighly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized inthat they always include a compound of formula (I) together with acompound of general formula (II).

Quaternary imidazoline compounds are a further group. Formula (Tkat2)below shows the structure of these compounds.

The residues R independently of one another each denote a saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon residue having a chainlength of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of formula(Tkat2) each include the same hydrocarbon residue for R. The chainlength of the residues R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. A denotesan anion as described above. Particularly suitable examples according tothe invention are available for example under the INCI namesQuaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91.Quaternium-91 is most highly preferred according to the invention.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention the agentsaccording to the invention include furthermore at least one amine and/orcationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and/or a cationizedamidoamine of the following structural formulae:

R¹—NH—(CH₂)_(n)—N⁺R²R³R⁴A  (Tkat3)

in which R1 denotes an acyl or alkyl residue having 6 to 30 C atoms,which can be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, andwherein the acyl residue and/or alkyl residue can include at least oneOH group, andR2, R3 and R4 in each case independently of one another denote

-   1) hydrogen or-   2) an alkyl residue having 1 to 4 C atoms, which can be the same or    different, saturated or unsaturated, and-   3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon    atoms with at least one and at most three hydroxyl groups, for    example —CH₂OH, —CH₂CH₂OH, —CHOHCHOH, —CH₂CHOHCH₃, —CH(CH₂OH)₂,    —COH(CH₂OH)₂, —CH₂CHOHCH₂OH, —CH₂CH₂CH₂OH and hydroxybutyl residues,    and    A denotes an anion as described above, and    n denotes an integer between 1 and 10.

A composition in which the amine and/or the quaternized amine accordingto general formula (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and/or a quaternizedamidoamine in which R1 denotes a branched or unbranched, saturated orunsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 30 C atoms, which can include atleast one OH group, is preferred. A fatty acid residue from oils andwaxes, in particular from natural oils and waxes, is preferred here.Suitable examples include lanolin, beeswax or candelilla wax.

Also preferred are amidoamines and/or quaternized amidoamines in whichR2, R3 and/or R4 in formula (Tkat3) denote a residue according to thegeneral formula CH₂CH₂OR5, in which R5 can have the meaning of alkylresidues having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. Thepreferred value of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integerbetween 2 and 5.

The alkyl amidoamines can be present as is and can also be convertedinto a quaternary compound in the composition by protonation in acorrespondingly acid solution. Cationic alkyl amidoamines are preferredaccording to the invention.

Examples of such commercial products according to the invention areWitcamine® 100, Incromine® BB, Mackine® 401 and other Mackine® types,Adogen® S18V, and as permanently cationic amino amines: Rewoquat® RTM50, Empigen® CSC, Swanol® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat® UTM 50,Schercoquat® BAS, Lexquat® AMG-BEO, or Incroquat® Behenyl HE.

The aforementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or inany combinations with one another, wherein they are included in amountsof between 0.01 and 10 wt. %, preferably in amounts from 0.01 to 7.5 wt.% and most particularly preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %. Thevery best results are obtained with amounts from 0.1 to 3.0 wt. %,relative in each case to the total composition of the individual agent.

Further quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphotericpolymers.

The cationic and/or amphoteric polymers can be homopolymers orcopolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternarynitrogen groups can be included either in the polymer chain orpreferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammoniumgroup-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationicmonomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radicallypolymerizable compounds bearing at least one cationic group, inparticular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as for exampletrialkyl methacryloxy alkylammonium, trialkyl acryloxy alkylammonium,dialkyl diallyl ammonium and quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers withcyclic groups including cationic nitrogens, such as pyridinium,imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. alkyl vinylimidazolium,alkyl vinylpyridinium, or alkyl vinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groupsof these monomers are preferably low alkyl groups such as for example C1to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers can be copolymerized withnon-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are for example acrylamide,methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone,vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, for example vinylacetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkylgroups of these monomers preferably being C1 to C7 alkyl groups,particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

Out of the large number of these polymers, the following have proved tobe particularly effective constituents of the active agent complexaccording to the invention: Homopolymers of general formula—{CH₂—[CR¹COO—(CH₂)_(m)N⁺R²R³R⁴]}_(n)X⁻,

in which R¹=—H or —CH₃, R², R³ and R⁴ are selected independently of oneanother from C1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m=1, 2, 3 or 4,n is a natural number and X⁻ is a physiologically acceptable organic orinorganic anion. In the context of these polymers, those for which atleast one of the following conditions applies are preferred according tothe invention: R¹ denotes a methyl group, R², R³ and R⁴ denote methylgroups, m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X⁻ are for examplehalide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions as well asorganic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions.Methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride, are preferred.

Suitable cationic polymers are for example copolymers according to theformula (Copo), which are preferably included in the hair treatmentagents according to the invention in an amount—relative to theirweight—from 0.001 to 5 wt. %, preferably 0.0025 to 2.5 wt. %,particularly preferably 0.005 to 1 wt. %, more preferably 0.0075 to 0.75wt. % and in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt. %.

in which:

-   x+y+z=Q-   Q denotes values from 3 to 55,000, preferably from 10 to 25,000,    particularly preferably from 50 to 15,000, more preferably from 100    to 10,000, still more preferably from 500 to 8000 and in particular    from 1000 to 5000,-   x denotes (0 to 0.5) Q, preferably (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular    the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, the value 0 being preferred,-   y denotes (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in    particular values from 1 to 24,000, preferably from 5 to 15,000,    particularly preferably from 10 to 10,000 and in particular from 100    to 4800,-   z denotes (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably (0.1 to 0.5) Q and in    particular values from 1 to 12,500, preferably from 2 to 8000,    particularly preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to    2000.

A highly preferred copolymer, which is synthesized as described above,is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinkedpoly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI namePolyquaternium-37. Such products are commercially available for exampleunder the names Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR(3V Sigma).

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymerdispersion. Such polymer dispersions are commercially available underthe names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96.

Suitable cationic polymers that are derived from natural polymers arecationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationicderivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan andchitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formulaG-O—B—N+R_(a)R_(b)R_(c)A⁻

G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or celluloseanhydroglucose;B is a divalent group of compounds, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene,polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;R_(a), R_(b) and R_(c) are independently of one another alkyl, aryl,alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl, each having up to 18 Catoms, the total number of C atoms in R_(a), R_(b) and R_(c) preferablybeing a maximum of 20;A⁻ is a conventional counteranion and is preferably chloride.

Cationic, i.e. quaternized, celluloses are available on the market withvarying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogencontent and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 iscommercially available under the names Polymer® SL or Polymer® SK(Amerchol). A further most highly preferred cellulose is available fromCroda under the trade name Mirustyle® CP. This is a trimonium andcocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose as a derivatized cellulose with theINCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used both in solidform and pre-dissolved in aqueous solution.

Further cationic celluloses are Polymer JR® 400 (Amerchol, INCI namePolyquaternium-10) and Polymer Quatrisoft® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI namePolyquaternium-24). Further commercial products are the compoundsCelquat® H 100 and Celquat® L 200. Particularly preferred cationiccelluloses are Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 andPolyquaternium-72.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are sold under the trade name Jaguar®and have the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.Particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also soldfurthermore by Hercules under the name N-Hance®. Further cationic guarderivatives are sold by Cognis under the name Cosmedia®. A preferredcationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® fromHercules. This raw material is a pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.

A suitable chitosan is sold for example by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan, underthe trade name Flonac®. A preferred chitosan salt is chitosoniumpyrrolidone carboxylate, which is sold for example under the nameKytamer® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are freelyavailable commercially under the trade names Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMFand Chitolam® NB/101.

A further group of extremely suitable polymers according to theinvention are glucose-based polymers. The figure below shows such acationic alkyl oligoglucoside.

In the above formula the residues R independently of one another denotea linear or branched C6 to C30 alkyl residue, a linear or branched C6 toC30 alkenyl residue; the residue R preferably denotes a residue Rselected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl orarachidyl.

The residues R1 independently of one another denote a linear or branchedC6 to C30 alkyl residue, a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkenyl residue;the residue R preferably denotes a residue selected from: butyl, capryl,caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl,oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. The residues R1 are particularly preferablythe same. Still more preferably, the residues R1 are selected fromtechnical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts from C6/C8 fatty alcohols,C8/C10 fatty alcohols, C10/C12 fatty alcohols, C12/C14 fatty alcoholsand C12/C18 fatty alcohols, and those technical fatty alcohol cuts whichare of plant origin are most highly preferred. The counterion forcationic charging is a physiologically acceptable anion, for examplehalide, methosulfate, phosphate, citrate, tartrate, etc. The counterionis preferably a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide ormethosulfate. The anion is most highly preferably chloride.

Particularly preferred examples of the cationic alkyl oligoglucosidesare the compounds with the INCI names Polyquatemium-77,Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80,Polyquatemium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. The cationic alkyloligoglucosides with the names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 andPolyquaternium-82 are most highly preferred.

Such compounds can be obtained for example from Colonial Chemical Inc.under the name Poly Suga® Quat.

The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount from 0.01to 10.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0 wt. %, more preferably from0.1 to 3.0 wt. % and most highly preferably in amounts from 0.2 to 2.0wt. %, relative in each case to the total weight of the composition. Thefact that mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used is alsoencompassed according to the invention of course. In this case it ispreferable for a long-chain and a short-chain cationic alkyloligoglucoside to be used at the same time in each case.

A further preferred cationic polymer can be obtained on the basis ofethanolamine. The polymer is commercially available under the namePolyquaternium-71.

This polymer can be obtained for example from Colonial Chemical Inc.under the name Cola® Moist 300 P.

Polyquaternium-71 is used in a total amount from 0.01 to 10.0 wt. %,preferably from 0.05 to 5.0 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0 wt. %and most highly preferably in amounts from 0.2 to 2.0 wt. %, relative ineach case to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore a cationic alkyl oligoglucoside as shown in the figure belowcan be used to particular advantage.

In the above formula the residue R2 denotes a linear or branched C6 toC30 alkyl residue, a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkenyl residue; theresidue R preferably denotes a residue R selected from: lauryl,myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.

The residue R1 denotes a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkyl residue, alinear or branched C6 to C30 alkenyl residue; the residue R1 preferablydenotes a residue selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl,decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.Still more preferably, the residue R1 is selected from technicalmixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts from C6/C8 fatty alcohols, C8/C10fatty alcohols, C10/C12 fatty alcohols, C12/C14 fatty alcohols andC12/C18 fatty alcohols, and those technical fatty alcohol cuts which areof plant origin are most highly preferred. The index n denotes a numberbetween 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 10, more preferably between 1and 5 and most highly preferably between 1 and 3. The counterion forcationic charging, A⁻, is a physiologically acceptable anion, forexample halide, methosulfate, phosphate, citrate, tartrate, etc. Thecounterion is preferably a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromideor methosulfate. The anion is most highly preferably chloride.

Particularly preferred examples of the cationic alkyl oligoglucosidesare the compounds with the INCI names LaurdimoniumhydroxypropylDecylglucosides Chloride, Laurdimoniumhydroxypropyl LaurylglucosidesChloride, Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl Decylglucosides Chloride,Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl Laurylglucosides Chloride,Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl Laurylglucosides Chloride or CocoglucosidesHydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

Such compounds can be obtained for example from Colonial Chemical Inc.under the name Suga® Quat.

The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount from 0.01to 10.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0 wt. %, more preferably from0.1 to 3.0 wt. % and most highly preferably in amounts from 0.2 to 2.0wt. %, relative in each case to the total weight of the composition. Thefact that mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used is alsoencompassed according to the invention of course. In this case it ispreferable for a long-chain and a short-chain cationic alkyloligoglucoside to be used at the same time in each case.

A particularly preferred cationic polymer according to the invention isthe copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam,N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyllauryl dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), whichis sold for example by ISP under the trade name AquaStyle® 300 (28-32wt. % active substance in an ethanol-water blend, molecular weight350,000).

Further preferred cationic polymers are for example

-   -   cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat®        50,    -   polymeric dimethyldiallyl ammonium salts and copolymers thereof        with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The        products available commercially under the names Merquat® 100        (poly(dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride)) and Merquat® 550        (dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are        examples of such cationic polymers with the INCI name        Polyquaternium-7,    -   vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, such        as are sold under the names Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550 and the        INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552,    -   quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate,        for example vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate        methosulfate copolymer, which is sold under the trade names        Gafquat® 755 N and Gafquat® 734 by Gaf Co., USA and the INCI        name Polyquaternium-11,    -   quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,    -   and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-2,        Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 with        quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,    -   vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl caprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such        as are available commercially with acrylic acid esters and        acrylic acid amides as the third monomer unit under the name        Aquaflex® SF 40, for example.

Amphoteric polymers according to the invention are polymers in which acationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

-   (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general    formula (Mono1),

R¹—CH═CR²—CO—Z—(C_(n)H_(2n))—N⁽⁺⁾R²R³R⁴A⁽⁻⁾  (Mono1)

-   -   in which R¹ and R² independently of one another denote hydrogen        or a methyl group and R³, R⁴ and R⁵ independently of one another        denote alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group        or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A⁽⁻⁾ is the        anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

-   (ii) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general    formula (Mono2),

-   -   in which R⁶ and R⁷ independently of one another denote a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and    -   A⁻ is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

-   (iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Mono3),

R⁸—CH═CR⁹—COOH  (Mono3)

-   -   in which R⁸ and R⁹ are independently of one another hydrogen or        methyl groups.

Polymers in which monomers of type (i) are used, in which R³, R⁴ and R⁵are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A⁽⁻⁾ is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxy sulfate ion, are particularly preferred;acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferredmonomer (i). Acrylic acid is preferably used as the monomer (ii) for thecited polymers.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at leastone monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) with the monomer (Mono3), in particularcopolymers of monomers (Mono2) and (Mono3). Amphoteric polymers that aremost particularly preferably used according to the invention arecopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid. Thesecopolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, inter aliaunder the trade name Merquat® 280 (Nalco).

In addition to a monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) and a monomer (Mono3), theamphoteric polymers according to the invention can moreover additionallyinclude a monomer (Mono4)

-   (iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula    (Mono4),

-   -   in which R¹⁰ and R¹¹ are independently of one another hydrogen        or methyl groups and R¹² denotes a hydrogen atom or a (C₁ to C₈)        alkyl group.

Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) that are mostparticularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymersof diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. Thesecopolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquatemium-39, inter aliaunder the trade name Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco).

The amphoteric polymers can generally be used according to the inventionboth directly and in the form of the salt, which is obtained byneutralization of the polymers, with an alkali hydroxide for example.

The aforementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in anycombinations with one another, wherein they are included in amounts ofbetween 0.01 and 10 wt. %, preferably in amounts from 0.01 to 7.5 wt. %and most particularly preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %. Thevery best results are obtained with amounts from 0.1 to 3.0 wt. %,relative in each case to the total composition of the individual agent.

In addition to the active agent combination according to the inventionthe hair treatment agents according to the invention naturally alsoinclude further constituents that are conventionally used in cosmeticcompositions. The choice of these constituents is generally governed bythe intended use of the hair treatment agents. In the case of a shampoo,for example, further surface-active substances are included. In the caseof hair masks, further cationic compounds and further care substancesare optionally included.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the active agent complexaccording to the invention the agents according to the inventionpreferably include at least one amino-functional silicone. Cationicsilicone oils such as for example the commercially available productsDow Corning (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-7113, SM-2059 (GeneralElectric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker) are suitable according to theinvention.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention arecharacterized in that they include at least one amino-functionalsilicone known under the INCI declaration astrimethylsilylamodimethicones. These are available for example under thename Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilizedtrimethylsilylamodimethicone).

Also particularly preferred are agents according to the inventionincluding at least one amino-functional silicone known under the INCIdeclaration as amodimethicones or as functionalized amodimethicones,such as for example Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (available forexample as the commercial product DC 8500 from Dow Corning).

Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of generalformula (Si3c)

[R¹R²R³N⁺-A-SiR⁷R⁸—(O—SiR⁹R¹⁰)_(n)—O—SiR¹¹R¹²-A-N⁺R⁴R⁵R⁶]2X⁻  (Si3c)

in which residues R1 to R6 independently of one another denote C1 to C22alkyl residues, which can include hydroxyl groups, and whereinpreferably at least one of the residues has at least 8 C atoms and theother residues have 1 to 4 C atoms,residues R7 to R12 independently of one another are the same ordifferent and denote C1 to C10 alkyl or phenyl, A denotes a divalentorganic group of compounds,n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, particularlypreferably from 10 to 40,and X⁻ is an anion.

The divalent group of compounds is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene oralkoxyalkylene group, which can be substituted with one or more hydroxylgroups. The group —(CH₂)₃—O—CH₂—CH(OH)—CH₂— is particularly preferred.

The anion X⁻ can be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate ora compound of the general formula RSO₃ ⁻, in which R has the meaning ofC1 to C4 alkyl residues.

A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d)

[RN⁺Me₂-A-(SiMe₂O)_(n)—SiMe₂-A-N⁺Me₂R]2CH₃COO⁻  (Si3d),

in which A is the group —(CH₂)₃—O—CH₂—CH(OH)—CH₂—,R is an alkyl residue having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from10 to 120.

Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal, quaternary ammoniumgroups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes having two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternarypolydimethyl siloxanes are sold by Evonik under the trade names Abil®Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474.

Hair treatment agents that are preferred according to the invention arecharacterized in that they contain, relative to their weight, 0.01 to 10wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5wt. % and in particular 0.2 to 5 wt. % of amino-functional silicone(s)and/or diquaternary silicone.

Polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds represent a further siliconeaccording to the invention having amino functions. Thepolyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be purchased for example from GEBayer Silicones under the trade name Baysilone®. The products with thenames Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred here. The useof Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositionsaccording to the invention is most particularly preferred. Thepolyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are used in the compositionsaccording to the invention in an amount from 0.01 to 10 wt. %,preferably 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5.0 wt. %, mostparticularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5 wt. %, relative in each case tothe total composition.

EP 1887024 A1 describes novel cationic amino-functional silicones, whichin particular improve the shine in care agents for surfaces, for examplehuman hair. These cationic silicone polymers are characterized in thatthey have a silicone framework and at least one polyether part andmoreover at least one part having an ammonium structure. Examples of thepreferred cationic silicone polymers within the meaning of the presentinvention, in addition to the compounds of the aforementioned EP 1887024A1, are moreover in particular the compounds having the INCI names:Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3,Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6,Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9,Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-11, Silicone Quaternium-12,Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17,Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21,Silicone Quaternium-22 and Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate andSilicone Quaternium-16/Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. SiliconeQuaternium-22 is most preferred in particular. This raw material is soldfor example by Evonik under the trade name Abil®T-Quat 60.

A last amino silicone that is particularly preferred according to theinvention corresponds to the following formula:

in which R1 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyl, methoxy or ethoxy group,R2 denotes a straight-chain or branched C8 to C24 alkyl or alkyleneresidue, preferably a straight-chain or branched C9 to C22 alkyl oralkenyl residue, particularly preferably a straight-chain or branchedC11 to C18 alkyl or alkenyl residue, most highly preferably acorresponding alkyl residue,n and m each denote integers from 1 to 1000 andq denotes in each case an integer from 2 to 50, preferably 4 to 30,particularly preferably 4 to 18 and most highly preferably from 4 to 12.

The molecular weight of such compounds is 15,000 to 2,000,000, measuredwith a Brookfield RV rotary viscometer, spindle 5, at 20° C. Themolecular weight is preferably 30,000 to 1,750,000 and particularlypreferably 50,000 to 1,500,000. The nitrogen content of the siliconesaccording to the invention is 0.03 to 4.2 wt. %, preferably 0.1 to 2.8wt. % and most highly preferably 0.16 to 1.4 wt. %. Amino-functionalcationic silicones according to the invention of the above formula canbe obtained from Clariant for example. A most highly preferred productaccording to the invention is commercially available under the INCI nameTrideceth-9-Amodimethicone and Trideceth-12.

The cationic amino-functional silicone polymers of the above formula areincluded in the compositions according to the invention in amounts from0.01 to 5 wt. %, preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 5 wt. % and mostparticularly preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 5 wt. %. The very bestresults are obtained with amounts from 0.1 to 2.5 wt. %, relative ineach case to the total composition of the individual agent.

The cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are included in thecompositions according to the invention in amounts from 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 10 wt. % and most particularlypreferably in amounts from 0.1 to 7.5 wt. %. The very best results areobtained with amounts from 0.1 to 5 wt. %, relative in each case to thetotal composition of the individual agent.

The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear andbranched and also cyclic or cyclic and branched. The viscosities arebetween 100 and 10,000,000 cPs, measured at 25° C. with a glasscapillary viscometer in accordance with the Dow Corning corporate testmethod CTM 0004 of 20 Jul. 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000and 5,000,000 cPs, most particularly preferred viscosities are between10,000 and 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and2,000,000 cPs. Viscosities around the range of approximately 60,000 cPsare most highly preferred. Reference is made here by way of example tothe product “Dow Corning 200 with 60,000 cSt”.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations accordingto the invention are characterized in that they include at least onesilicone of formula (Si1.2)

(CH₃)₃Si—[O—Si(CH₃)₂]_(x)—O—Si(CH₃)₃  (Si1.2),

in which x denotes a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, morepreferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

The dimethicones are included in the compositions according to theinvention in amounts from 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt. %,particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt. % and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.%, relative to the total composition.

Finally, the silicone compounds are understood to include dimethiconols.The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear andbranched and also cyclic or cyclic and branched. The viscosities arebetween 100 and 10,000,000 cPs, measured at 25° C. with a glasscapillary viscometer in accordance with the Dow Corning corporate testmethod CTM 0004 of 20 Jul. 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000and 5,000,000 cPs, most particularly preferred viscosities are between10,000 and 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and2,000,000 cPs.

The following commercial products are cited as examples of suchproducts: Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, DowCorning 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Corning1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555,SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (these last four all GE Silicones), Wacker-BelsilCM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-BelsilDM 60081 VP (these last all Wacker-Chemie GmbH).

The dimethiconols are included in the compositions according to theinvention in amounts from 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt. %,particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt. % and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% of dimethiconol, relative to the composition.

The cyclic dimethicones referred to under INCI as cyclomethicones canalso be used to advantage according to the invention. Cosmetic ordermatological preparations according to the invention are preferredthat include at least one silicone of formula (Si-4),

in which x denotes a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, morepreferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.

Agents that are likewise preferred according to the invention arecharacterized in that they include at least one silicone of formula(Si-5)

R₃Si—[O—SiR₂]_(x)—(CH₂)_(n)—[O—SiR₂]_(y)—O—SiR₃  (Si-5),

in which R denotes the same or different residues from the group —H,-phenyl, -benzyl, —CH₂—CH(CH₃)Ph, C₁₋₂₀ alkyl residues, preferably —CH₃,—CH₂CH₃, —CH₂CH₂CH₃, —CH(CH₃)₂, —CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, —CH₂CH(CH₃)₂,—CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, —C(CH₃)₃, x and y denote a number from 0 to 200,preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n denotes a number from 0 to 10, preferablyfrom 1 to 8 and in particular 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

As further silicones in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols,amodimethicones and/or cyclomethicones according to the invention,water-soluble silicones can be included in the compositions according tothe invention.

Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected for example from thecompounds of formulae (Si-6) and/or (Si-7). Silicone-based water-solublesurfactants that are preferred in particular are selected from the groupof dimethicone copolyols, which are preferably alkoxylated, inparticular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.

According to the invention dimethicone copolyols are understood to bepreferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethyl polysiloxanes of thegeneral formulae (Si-6) or (Si-7):

in which the residue R denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxylgroup, the residues R′ and R″ denote alkyl groups having 1 to 12 Catoms, x denotes an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, ydenotes an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and a and bdenote integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.

Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols within the meaning of theinvention are for example the products sold commercially under the tradename SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING. Dimethiconecopolyols that are particularly preferred according to the invention areDow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.

The dimethicone copolyols are included in the compositions according tothe invention in amounts from 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt. % and in particular 0.1 to 5wt. % of dimethicone copolyol, relative to the composition.

Even though all silicones can be used with the active agent combinationaccording to the invention, it has been found that the effect diminishesin the order amino-functional silicones, dimethicones comparable withdimethiconols, cyclomethicones and water-soluble silicones. If more thantwo silicones are used, combinations of amino-functional silicones withdimethicones and/or dimethiconols have proved to be most effective inincreasing the effect of the active agent combination according to theinvention. The very best effects are obtained if the silicone compoundsalready described as being particularly preferred are used as silicones.

A further preferred ingredient of the compositions according to theinvention is a hydroxycarboxylic acid. Hydroxycarboxylic acids arecarboxylic acids having both at least one carboxyl group and at leastone hydroxyl group in the molecule. In particular, hydroxycarboxylicacids include the so-called AHA acids and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids.Another name for such hydroxy acids is fruit acid, because the acidsfrequently occur in fruits. The hydroxycarboxylic acid according to theinvention is selected in particular from glycolic acid, lactic acid,glyceric acid, malic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, mandelic acid,tartronic acid, tartaric acid, vanillic acid, salicylic acid, mevalonicacid, β-hydroxybutyric acid, gallic acid or protocatechuic acid. Thehydroxycarboxylic acid is particularly preferably selected from glycolicacid, lactic acid, glyceric acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelicacid, tartaric acid, vanillic acid and salicylic acid. Thehydroxycarboxylic acid is most particularly preferably selected fromglycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid,tartaric acid and vanillic acid. The hydroxycarboxylic acid is mosthighly preferably selected from malic acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acidand vanillic acid. Mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids can of coursealso be used.

The compositions according to the invention include thehydroxycarboxylic acids in total in an amount from 0.01 to 15.0 wt. %,in particular from 0.01 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 to 7.5 wt. %and most highly preferably in an amount from 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %, relativein each case to the total composition.

A further ingredient which increases the effect of the active agentcombination according to the invention is an oil body. These are toparticular advantage ester oils, for example. Ester oils are defined asfollows:

Ester oils are understood to be the esters of C6-C₃₀ fatty acids withC₂-C₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcoholshaving 2 to 24 C atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid componentsused in the esters are hexanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoicacid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid,palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleicacid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid,elaeostearic acid, eicosanoic acid, gadoleic acid, docosanoic acid anderucic acid and technical mixtures thereof. Examples of the fattyalcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, hexanol,octanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecylalcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearylalcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol,petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearylalcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucylalcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof.Particularly preferred according to the invention are isopropylmyristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C₁₆₋₁₈ alkyl ester (Cetiol®SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fattyalcohol caprinate/caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleylerucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit®IPP), oleyl oleate(Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate(Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate(Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V).

The ester oils can naturally also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide,propylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. Thealkoxylation can take place both on the fatty alcohol part and on thefatty acid part and also on both parts of the ester oils. It ispreferred according to the invention, however, for the fatty alcohol tobe alkoxylated first and then esterified with fatty acid. Thesecompounds are shown in general in formula (D4-II).

R1 here denotes a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched,cyclic saturated, cyclic unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 30 carbonatoms,AO denotes ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide,X denotes a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100,particularly preferably between 1 and 50, most particularly preferablybetween 1 and 20, most highly preferably between 1 and 10 and mostpreferably between 1 and 5,R2 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclicsaturated, cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzylresidue having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid componentsused as residue R1 in the esters are hexanoic acid, octanoic acid,2-ethylhexanoic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid,myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearicacid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid,linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, eicosanoic acid, gadoleic acid,docosanoic acid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof. Examplesof the fatty alcohol components as residue R2 in the ester oils arebenzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol,2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecylalcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearylalcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol,petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearylalcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucylalcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof. An esteroil that is particularly preferred according to the invention isavailable for example under the INCI name PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate.

Ester oils are also understood to include:

-   -   dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate,        di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and        diisotridecyl acelate and also diol esters such as ethylene        glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene        glycol di-(2-ethyl hexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,        propylene glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate,        neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, and    -   symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with        fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl        carbonate (Cetiol® CC),    -   tri-fatty acid esters of saturated and/or unsaturated linear        and/or branched fatty acids with glycerol,    -   fatty acid partial glycerides, namely monoglycerides,        diglycerides and technical mixtures thereof. Typical examples        are mono- and/or diglycerides based on hexanoic acid, octanoic        acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid,        isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic        acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid,        petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic        acid, eicosanoic acid, gadoleic acid, docosanoic acid and erucic        acid and technical mixtures thereof. Oleic acid monoglycerides        are preferably used.

The ester oils are used in the agents according to the invention in anamount from 0.01 to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 10.0 wt. %,particularly preferably 0.01 to 7.5 wt. %, most highly preferably from0.1 to 5.0 wt. %. Naturally it is also possible according to theinvention to use a plurality of ester oils at the same time.

Further oil bodies according to the invention are:

-   -   vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive        oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange        oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid components        of coconut oil. Other triglyceride oils are also suitable,        however, such as the liquid components of beef fat and synthetic        triglyceride oils.    -   liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic        hydrocarbons and also di-n-alkyl ethers having in total between        12 and 36 C atoms, in particular between 12 and 24 C atoms, such        as for example di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl        ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl        ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether,        n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and also        di-tert-butyl ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether,        tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl        pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds        1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)cyclohexane and di-n-octyl ether, which are        available as commercial products (Cetiol® S and Cetiol®OE        respectively), can be preferred.

Amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassuoil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil,groundnut oil, pomegranate kernel oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil,hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil,cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil,marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil,rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil,shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil orwild rose oil, for example, are used as natural oils.

In many cases the agents include at least one surface-active substance,with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, non-ionic and cationicsurface-active substances being suitable in principle. The choice ofsurface-active substances is governed by the type of agent.

All anionic surface-active substances that are suitable for use on thehuman body are suitable as anionic surfactants (Tanion) in preparationsaccording to the invention. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:

-   -   linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps),    -   ether carboxylic acids of the formula        R—O—(CH₂—CH₂O)_(x)—CH₂—COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group        having 8 to 30 C atoms and x=0 or 1 to 16, and salts thereof,    -   acyl sarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,    -   acyl taurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,    -   acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,    -   sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C        atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl        polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group        and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,    -   linear alkane sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,    -   linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,    -   alpha-sulfo fatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to        30 C atoms,    -   alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the        formula R—O(CH₂—CH₂O)_(x)—OSO₃H, in which R is a preferably        linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x=0 or 1 to 12,    -   hydroxyl sulfonates substantially corresponding to at least one        of the following two formulae or to mixtures and salts thereof,        CH₃—(CH₂)_(y)—CHOH—(CH₂)_(p)—(CH—SO₃M)-(CH₂)_(z)—CH₂—O—(C_(n)H_(2n)O)_(x)—H,        and/or        CH₃—(CH₂)_(y)—(CH—SO₃M)-(CH₂)_(p)—CHOH—(CH₂)_(z)—CH₂—O—(C_(n)H_(2n)O)_(x)—H        wherein in both formulae y and z=0 or integers from 1 to 18,        p=0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y+z+p) is a number from 12 to 18, x=0        or a number from 1 to 30 and n is an integer from 2 to 4 and M=H        or an alkali ion, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium,        alkaline-earth ion, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc        and/or an ammonium ion, which can optionally be substituted, in        particular mono-, di-, tri- or tetraammonium ions with C1 to C4        alkyl, alkenyl or aryl residues,    -   sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and/or hydroxyalkylene        propylene glycol ethers of the formula        R¹—(CHOSO₃M)-CHR³—(OCHR⁴—CH₂)_(n)—OR² in which R¹ denotes a        linear alkyl residue having 1 to 24 C atoms, R² denotes a linear        or branched, saturated alkyl residue having 1 to 24 C atoms, R³        denotes hydrogen or a linear alkyl residue having 1 to 24 C        atoms, R⁴ denotes hydrogen or a methyl residue and M denotes        hydrogen, ammonium, alkyl ammonium, alkanol ammonium, wherein        the alkyl and alkanol residues each have 1 to 4 C atoms, or a        metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or        magnesium, and n denotes a number in the range from 0 to 12 and        furthermore the total number of C atoms included in R¹ and R³ is        2 to 44,    -   sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and        1 to 6 double bonds,    -   esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols that are        addition products of approximately 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene        oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22        C atoms,    -   alkyl and/or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula        R¹(OCH₂CH₂)_(n)—O—(PO—OX)—OR²,        -   in which R¹ preferably denotes an aliphatic hydrocarbon            residue having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R² denotes hydrogen, a            (CH₂CH₂O)_(n)R² residue or X, n denotes numbers from 1 to 10            and X denotes hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or            NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, with R³ to R⁶ independently of one another            denoting hydrogen or a C₁ to C4 hydrocarbon residue,    -   sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula        RCO(AlkO)_(n)SO₃M        -   in which RCO— denotes a linear or branched, aliphatic,            saturated and/or unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 22 C            atoms, Alk denotes CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ and/or CH₂CHCH₃, n            denotes numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M denotes a metal, such as            alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium,            alkaline-earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium,            zinc, or ammonium ion, such as ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, with R³ to R⁶            independently of one another denoting hydrogen or a C1 to C4            hydrocarbon residue,    -   monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the        formula        R⁸OC—(OCH₂CH₂)_(x)—OCH₂—[CHO(CH₂CH₂O)_(y)H]—CH₂O(CH₂CH₂O)_(z)—SO₃X,        -   in which R⁸CO denotes a linear or branched acyl residue            having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total denote 0 or            numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X denotes an            alkali or alkaline-earth metal. Typical examples of suitable            monoglyceride (ether) sulfates within the meaning of the            invention are the reaction products of lauric acid            monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic            acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid            monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as            the ethylene oxide adducts thereof with sulfur trioxide or            chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.            Monoglyceride sulfates are preferably used in which R⁸CO            denotes a linear acyl residue having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,    -   amide ether carboxylic acids,        R¹—CO—NR²—CH₂CH₂—O—(CH₂CH₂O)_(n)CH₂COOM, with R¹ as a        straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl residue having a        number of carbon atoms in the chain from 2 to 30, n denotes an        integer from 1 to 20 and R² denotes hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl,        propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or isobutyl residue and M        denotes hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular        sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline-earth metal, in particular        magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as        ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, with R³ to R⁶ independently of one another denoting        hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon residue. Such products are        available for example from Chem-Y under the product name Akypo®,    -   acyl glutamates of the formula XOOC—CH₂CH₂CH(C(NH)OR)—COOX, in        which RCO denotes a linear or branched acyl residue having 6 to        22 carbon atoms and 0 and/or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X        denotes hydrogen, an alkali and/or alkaline-earth metal,        ammonium, alkyl ammonium, alkanol ammonium or glucammonium,    -   condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble        protein hydrolysate with a C8-C30 fatty acid. Such products have        long been available commercially under the trademark Lamepon®,        Maypon®, Gluadin®, Hostapon® KCG or Amisoft®,    -   alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates,        phosphates and/or isethionates,    -   acyl lactylates and    -   hydroxy mixed ether sulfates.

If the gentle anionic surfactants include polyglycol ether chains, it ismost particularly preferable for them to have a narrow homologdistribution. In the case of gentle anionic surfactants havingpolyglycol ether units, it is furthermore preferable for the number ofglycol ether groups to be 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, particularlypreferably 2 to 12. Particularly gentle anionic surfactants havingpolyglycol ether groups without a narrow homolog distribution can alsobe obtained for example if the number of polyglycol ether groups is 4 to12 and Zn or Mg ions are chosen as the counterion. One example is thecommercial product Texapon® ASV.

Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the betaines such asN-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate,and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines each having 8 to18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionicsurfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI nameCocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho) are understood to be surface-activecompounds that are capable of forming internal salts. Examples ofsuitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionicacids, N-alkyl aminobutyric acids, N-alkyl iminodipropionic acids,N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl amidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acids and alkyl aminoacetic acids,each having approximately 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Typicalexamples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines,alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazoliniumbetaines and sulfobetaines.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C₁₂-C₁₈ acylsarcosine.

Non-ionic surfactants (Tnio) are for example

-   -   addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5        mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols        having 6 to 30 C atoms, fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or fatty        alcohol polypropylene glycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol        polyethers,    -   addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5        mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty acids        having 6 to 30 C atoms, fatty acid polyglycol ethers or fatty        acid polypropylene glycol ethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,    -   addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5        mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched alkylphenols        having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, alkylphenol        polyglycol ethers or alkyl polypropylene glycol ethers or mixed        alkylphenol polyethers,    -   addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5        mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols        having 8 to 30 C atoms, with fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms        and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,        end-capped with a methyl or C₂ to C6 alkyl residue, such as for        example the types available under the commercial names Dehydol®        LS, Dehydol® LT (Cognis),    -   C₁₂-C₃₀ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products        of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,    -   addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with castor        oil and hydrogenated castor oil,    -   polyol fatty acid esters, such as for example the commercial        product Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol® types (Cognis),    -   alkoxylated triglycerides,    -   alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (Tnio-1)

R¹CO—(OCH₂CHR²)_(w)OR³  (Tnio-1)

-   -   in which R¹CO denotes a linear or branched, saturated and/or        unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R² denotes        hydrogen or methyl, R³ denotes linear or branched alkyl residues        having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w denotes numbers from 1 to 20,    -   amine oxides,    -   hydroxy mixed ethers,        R¹O[CH₂CH(CH₃)O]_(x)(CH₂CHR²O)_(y)[CH₂CH(OH)R³]_(z) with R¹        denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl        and/or alkenyl residue having 2 to 30 C atoms, R² denoting        hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl residue, R³        denoting a linear or branched alkyl residue having 2 to 30 C        atoms, x denoting 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y a number from 1        to 30 and z denoting the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5,    -   sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene        oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as for example        polysorbates,    -   sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide        with sugar fatty acid esters,    -   addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanol        amides and fatty amines,    -   sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type,    -   sugar surfactants of the fatty acid-N-alkyl        polyhydroxyalkylamide type,    -   fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol        ethers,    -   mixed ethers or mixed formals and polysorbates.

The surfactants (T) are used in amounts from 0.05 to 45 wt. %,preferably 0.1 to 30 wt. % and most particularly preferably from 0.5 to25 wt. %, relative to the total agent used according to the invention.

Emulsifiers that can be used according to the invention are for example

-   -   addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5        mol of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22        C atoms, with fatty acids having 12 to 22 C atoms and with        alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,    -   C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products        of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with polyols having 3 to 6        carbon atoms, in particular with glycerol,    -   ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products with methyl        glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanol amides and fatty        acid glucamides,    -   C₈-C₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and ethoxylated analogs        thereof, wherein degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in        particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component are        preferred,    -   mixtures of alkyl (oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, for        example the commercially available product Montanov®68,    -   addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with castor        oil and hydrogenated castor oil,    -   partial esters of polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms with        saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,    -   sterols, from both animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol,        lanosterol) and vegetable fats (phytosterols, ergosterol,        stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts        (mycosterols),    -   phospholipids (lecithins, phosphatidylcholines),    -   fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as        sorbitol,    -   polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as for example        polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product        Dehymuls® PGPH).

The agents according to the invention include emulsifiers preferably inamounts from 0.1 to 25 wt. %, in particular 0.5 to 15 wt. %, relative tothe total agent.

The compositions according to the invention include fats as a furtheractive agent to particular advantage. Fats are understood to be fattyacids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be presentboth in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and naturaland synthetic cosmetic oil components.

Linear and/or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids having6 to 30 carbon atoms can be used as fatty acids. Fatty acids having 10to 22 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples which can be cited includethe isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 andEmersol® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial productEdenor® IP 95, as well as all further fatty acids sold under the Edenor®trade names (Cognis). Further typical examples of such fatty acids arehexanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, decanoic acid,lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid,palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidicacid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid,eicosanoic acid, gadoleic acid, docosanoic acid and erucic acid andtechnical mixtures thereof. The fatty acid cuts obtainable from coconutoil or palm oil are conventionally particularly preferred; as a rule theuse of stearic acid is preferred in particular.

The amount used here is 0.1 to 15 wt. %, relative to the total agent.The amount is preferably 0.5 to 10 wt. %, wherein amounts of 1 to 5 wt.% can be most particularly advantageous.

Saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fattyalcohols having C₆ to C₃₀, preferably C₁₀ to C₂₂ and most particularlypreferably C₁₂ to C₂₂ carbon atoms can be used as fatty alcohols.Suitable for use within the meaning of the invention are for exampledecanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol,decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucic alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearylalcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristylalcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleylalcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as the Guerbetalcohols thereof, wherein this list is intended to be of an exemplaryand non-limiting nature. However, the fatty alcohols derive frompreferably natural fatty acids, wherein it can conventionally be assumedthat they are obtained from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.Likewise suitable for use according to the invention are fatty alcoholcuts constituting a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substancesare available commercially for example under the names Stenol®, e.g.Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, e.g. Lanette® O or Lorol®, e.g. Lorol® C8,Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, e.g.Crodacol® C8, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18,Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb®12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24. Wool wax alcohols can of course also beused according to the invention, such as are available commercially forexample under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®. Thefatty alcohols are used in amounts from 0.1 to 30 wt. %, relative to thetotal preparation, preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 20 wt. %.

Solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelillawaxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxessuch as for example apple wax or citrus wax, PE or PP microwaxes can beused according to the invention as natural or synthetic waxes. Suchwaxes are available for example via Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1 to 50 wt. %, relative to the total agent,preferably 0.1 to 20 wt. % and particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt. %,relative to the total agent.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the agents according tothe invention is conventionally 0.5 to 75 wt. %, relative to the totalagent. Amounts from 0.5 to 35 wt. % are preferred according to theinvention.

Protein hydrolysates and/or derivatives thereof are a furthersynergistic active agent according to the invention in the compositionsaccording to the invention with the active agent complex according tothe invention.

According to the invention protein hydrolysates of both plant and animalor marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are for example elastin, collagen, keratin,silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in theform of salts. Such products are sold for example under the trademarksDehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis),Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess &Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).

Also preferred according to the invention are plant proteinhydrolysates, such as for example soy, almond, pea, moringa, potato andwheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available for exampleunder the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein®(Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda),Hydrotritium® (Croda), Crotein® (Croda) and Puricare® LS 9658 fromLaboratoires Serobiologiques.

Further protein hydrolysates that are preferred according to theinvention are of marine origin. They include for example collagenhydrolysates of fish or algae and protein hydrolysates of mussels orpearl hydrolysates. Examples of pearl extracts according to theinvention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® orCrodarom® Pearl.

The protein hydrolysates and derivatives thereof also include cationizedprotein hydrolysates, wherein the underlying protein hydrolysate canderive from animal sources, for example from collagen, milk or keratin,from plant sources, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy oralmonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen oralgae, or from protein hydrolysates obtained by biotechnology. Typicalexamples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives accordingto the invention are the products which are listed under the INCI namesin the “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”,(seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and FragranceAssociation, 1101 17th Street, N.W., Suite 300, Washington, D.C.20036-4702) and which are available commercially.

The protein hydrolysates are included in the compositions inconcentrations from 0.001 wt. % to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 15 wt. % and most particularly preferably in amounts from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %.

A further preferred group of ingredients of the compositions accordingto the invention with the active agent complex according to theinvention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.

Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferredthat are assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances classed as vitamin A includes retinol (vitaminA₁) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A₂). β-Carotene is the retinolprovitamin. Suitable vitamin A components according to the invention arefor example vitamin A acid and esters thereof, vitamin A aldehyde andvitamin A alcohol and esters thereof such as the palmitate and acetate.The agents according to the invention include the vitamin A componentpreferably in amounts from 0.05 to 1 wt. %, relative to the totalpreparation.

The vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes inter alia:

Vitamin B₁ (thiamine)Vitamin B₂ (riboflavin)Vitamin B₃. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide(niacinamide) are often included under this term. Preferred according tothe invention is nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably included inthe agents used according to the invention in amounts from 0.05 to 1 wt.%, relative to the total agent.Vitamin B₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Within thecontext of this group panthenol and/or pantolactone is preferably used.Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the inventionare in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol as well ascationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are forexample panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and themonoacetate thereof, and cationic panthenol derivatives. Pantothenicacid is preferably used in the present invention as a derivative in theform of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca pantothenate,Na pantothenate).Vitamin B₆ (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The cited compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B₃, B₅and B₆, are included in the agents according to the invention preferablyin amounts from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, relative to the total agent. Amountsfrom 0.1 to 5 wt. % are particularly preferred.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according tothe invention preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 3 wt. %, relative to thetotal agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, glucosides orphosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols canlikewise be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol). Tocopherol andderivatives thereof, which include in particular esters such as acetate,nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably included in theagents according to the invention in amounts from 0.05 to 1 wt. %,relative to the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term “vitamin F” is conventionally understood to meanessential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid andarachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the name given to the compound(3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazole-4-valeric acid,although this is now more widely known by the trivial name biotin.Biotin is preferably included in the agents according to the inventionin amounts from 0.0001 to 1.0 wt. %, in particular in amounts from 0.001to 0.01 wt. %.

The compositions according to the invention preferably include vitamins,provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol,pantolactone, pyridoxine and derivatives thereof as well as nicotinicacid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmeticcompositions according to the invention is constituted by the betaineslisted below: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesiumcitrate, acetyl carnitine, betalains, 1,1-dimethyl proline, choline,choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and thecompound N,N,N-trimethylglycine, which is classed in the literature asbetaine.

Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used. In aparticularly preferred embodiment of the invention L-carnitine tartrateis used as the active agent.

Agents according to the invention which include—relative to theirweight—0.0001 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt. %,particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt. % and in particular 0.001 to1.0 wt. % of at least one of the aforementioned betaines, in particularcarnitine titrate, are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment that is preferred according to the invention thecompositions according to the invention include bioquinones. In theagents according to the invention suitable bioquinones are understood tobe one or more ubiquinones and/or plastoquinones. The ubiquinones thatare preferred according to the invention have the following formula:

Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred here.

Preferred compositions according to the invention include purine and/orpurine derivatives in relatively narrow quantity ranges. Cosmetic agentsthat are preferred according to the invention are characterized in thatthey include—relative to their weight—0.001 to 2.5 wt. %, preferably0.0025 to 1 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt. % and inparticular 0.01 to 0.1 wt. % of purine(s) and/or purine derivative(s).Cosmetic agents that are preferred according to the invention arecharacterized in that they include purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid,hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine,theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetics preparations caffeine ismost preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention the cosmeticagent includes ectoine ((S)-2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid).

Particularly preferred according to the invention are agents whichinclude—relative to their weight—0.00001 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably0.0001 to 5.0 wt. % and in particular 0.001 to 3 wt. % of active agentsfrom the group formed from camitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a vitaminof the B series, a purine and derivatives or physiologically acceptablesalts thereof.

A most particularly preferred care additive in the hair treatment agentsaccording to the invention is taurine. Taurine is understood to beexclusively 2-aminoethane sulfonic acid, and a derivative to be theexplicitly cited taurine derivatives. The taurine derivatives areunderstood to be N-monomethyltaurine, N,N-dimethyltaurine, taurinelysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithate, lysyl taurine andornithyl taurine.

Agents according to the invention which include—relative to theirweight—0.0001 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt. %,particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt. % and in particular 0.001 to1.0 wt. % of taurine and/or a taurine derivative are particularlypreferred.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be furtherincreased by means of a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid andderivatives thereof. The sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium orammonium salts are preferred, in which the ammonium ion bears one tothree C₁ to C₄ alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen. The sodium salt ismost particularly preferred. The amounts used in the agents according tothe invention are 0.05 to 10 wt. %, relative to the total agent,particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt. %.

Through the use of plant extracts as care substances the hair treatmentagents according to the invention can be formulated so that they areparticularly close to nature and yet very effective in their careperformance. Otherwise conventional preservatives can even optionally bedispensed with. Preferred above all according to the invention are theextracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops,henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, whitethorn, lime blossom, almond,aloe vera, pine, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango,apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary,birch, mallow, valerian, lady's smock, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme,melissa, restharrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee,cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic plant extracts such as forexample Aegle marmelos (bilva), Cyperus rotundus (nagarmotha), Emblicaofficinalis (amalaki), Morinda citrifolia (ashyuka), Tinosporacordifolia (guduchi), Santalum album (chandana), Crocus sativus(kumkuma), Cinnamonum zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (kamala), grassessuch as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelt, corn, the various types ofmillet (proso millet, finger millet, foxtail millet as examples), sugarcane, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, false oat-grass, bentgrass, meadowfescue, moor grass, bamboo, cottongrass, pennisetums, Andropogonodeae(Imperata cylindrica, also known as blood grass or cogon grass), buffalograss, cord grass, dog's tooth grass, lovegrass, Cymbopogon (citronellagrass), Oryzeae (rice), Zizania (wild rice), marram grass, blueoatgrass, soft-grass, quaking grass, speargrass, couch grass andEchinacea, in particular Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench, all types ofvine and pericarp of Litchi chinensis.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention in both pureand diluted form. If they are used in diluted form they conventionallyinclude approximately 2 to 80 wt. % of active substance and as thesolvent the extracting agent or mixture of extracting agents used toobtain them.

It can occasionally be necessary to use anionic polymers. Examples ofanionic monomers which can constitute such polymers are acrylic acid,methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid. Some or all of the acidgroups therein can be present as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono-or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers including as the sole monomer or as a co-monomer2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in which some or all of thesulfonic acid group can be present as the sodium, potassium, ammonium,mono- or triethanolammonium salt, have proved to be most particularlyeffective.

The homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, which isavailable commercially for example under the name Rheothik®11-80, isparticularly preferred.

Preferred non-ionogenic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylicacid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ether andvinyl ester.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers aswell as in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers includingsulfonic acid groups. Such a polymer is included in the commercialproduct Sepigel® 305 from SEPPIC.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked andcrosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, ofsucrose and of propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents here. Suchcompounds are available commercially for example under the trademarkCarbopol®.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particularthose with crosslinkages, are likewise color-retaining polymers. Amaleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadieneis available commercially under the name Stabileze® QM.

The anionic polymers are included in the agents according to theinvention preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, relative to thetotal agent. Amounts from 0.1 to 5 wt. % are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment the agents according to the invention caninclude non-ionogenic polymers.

Suitable non-ionogenic polymers are for example:

-   -   vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl ester copolymers, such as are sold for        example under the trademark Luviskol® (BASF). Luviskol® VA 64        and Luviskol® VA 73, both of which are vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl        acetate copolymers, are likewise preferred non-ionic polymers;    -   cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropylcellulose,        hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, such as        are sold for example under the trademarks Culminal® and Benecel®        (AQUALON), and Natrosol® types (Hercules); starch and        derivatives thereof, in particular starch ethers, for example        Structure® XL (National Starch), a multifunctional,        salt-tolerant starch;    -   shellac;    -   polyvinylpyrrolidones, such as are sold for example under the        name Luviskol® (BASF).

The non-ionic polymers are included in the compositions according to theinvention preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, relative to thetotal agent. Amounts from 0.1 to 5 wt. % are particularly preferred.

The cosmetic agents can furthermore include additional active agents,auxiliary substances and additives, such as for example

-   -   texturizing agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid,    -   swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or        hydantoin,    -   dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,    -   dyes to color the agent,    -   anti-dandruff active agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc        omadine and climbazole,    -   complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid and        phosphonic acids,    -   opacifiers such as latex, styrene/PVP and styrene/acrylamide        copolymers,    -   pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate        as well as PEG-3 distearate,    -   pigments,    -   stabilizing agents for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing        agents,    -   propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N₂O, dimethyl        ether, CO₂ and air,    -   antioxidants,    -   perfume oils, scents and fragrances.

With regard to further optional components and to the amounts of thesecomponents used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manualsknown to the person skilled in the art.

The invention secondly provides a method for hair treatment, in which ahair treatment agent according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and isrinsed out of the hair after a contact period.

The contact period is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes,particularly preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most particularly preferably1 to 30 minutes.

A method in which a cosmetic agent according to claim 1 is applied tothe hair and remains there is also in accordance with the invention.“Remains on the hair” is understood to mean according to the inventionthat the agent is not rinsed out of the hair again immediately afterbeing applied. In this case the agent instead remains on the hair formore than 100 minutes and up until the next time the hair is washed.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter ofthe present invention without however limiting its scope.

Examples

Unless otherwise specified, all stated amounts are parts by weight. Thefollowing formulations were prepared using known production methods.

Hair rinse: S1 S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 Stenol ® 1618 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0Genamin ® KDMP 2.0 — 2.0 — — — Cetrimonium chloride — — — — 1.0 —Rheocare ® Ultragel 2.0 — — — — — Dehyquart ® L80 0.5 — — 0.5 — —Polyquaternium-77 0.5 — — 0.5 — — Silcare ® SEA 0.5 — 0.5 — — —Polyquaternium-71 0.5 — 0.5 — — Terraquat ® BD — 3.0 0.5 — 3.0 1.0 DowCorning ® 949 — — — 0.5 — — Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl 0.5 — 0.5 0.5 —— laurylglucoside Bis-(Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline)isostearamide 1.0 1.01.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Panthenol 0.5 0.5 0.3 0.5 0.2 0.2 Isopropyl myristate0.4 — — — — — DC ® 200, 60,000 cSt 0.3 — 0.2 — — — Dicaprylyl carbonate0.3 — 0.3 0.3 — — Titanium dioxide 0.1 — — — 0.2 0.5 Citric acid — — —0.3 — — Vanillic acid 0.2 0.2 — 0.2 — — Mandelic acid — — 0.3 0.2 0.3 —Methylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100to 100 to 100The pH values of all formulations were set to 2 to 4.

Hair mask: K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 Stenol ® 1618 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0Quartamin ® BTC 131 1.5 — 0.8 1.0 — — Crodazosoft ® DBQ 1.5 — — 1.5 — —Rheocare ® Ultragel 3.0 — — — — — Dehyquart ® L80 0.5 — — 0.5 — —Dehyquart ® F 75 — — — — 1.0 — Polyquaternium-77 0.5 — — 0.5 — —Silcare ® SEA 0.5 0.5 0.5 — — — Polyquaternium-71 0.5 — 0.5 — — —Terraquat ® BD — 4.5 0.5 1.5 4.5 1.5 Dow Corning ® 949 — — — 0.5 — —Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl 0.5 — 0.5 0.5 — — laurylglucosideBis-(Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline)isostearamide 1.0 1.5 4.0 3.0 1.5 1.5Benzophenone-4 0.5 — — — 2.0 1.0 Citric acid — — — 0.3 — — Vanillic acid2.0 2.0 — 0.5 — — Mandelic acid — — 0.3 2.0 0.3 — Isopropyl myristate0.4 — 0.4 — — — Panthenol 0.5 0.5 0.8 0.5 0.5 0.5 DC ® 200, 60,000 cSt0.3 — 0.2 — — — Cetiol ® C5 1.0 — 0.3 0.3 — — Dicaprylyl carbonate 0.3 —0.3 0.3 — — Methylparaben 0.2 — 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.30.3 0.3 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Water to 100 to 100 to100 to 100 to 100 to 100The pH values of all formulations were set to 2 to 4.

Hair shampoo: HS1 HS2 HS3 HS4 HS5 Ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (2-EO)20.0 20.0 9.0 — — Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (2-EO) — — — 9.0 9.0Terraquat ® BD 2.0 2.0 — — — Ammonium lauryl sulfate (30%) 20.0 20.0 — —— Cocamidopropyl betaine 7.0 7.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Plantacare ® 818 UP — — 6.06.0 6.0 Citric acid or lactic acid or a 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 mixture ofboth Thickening agent 1.0 2.0 0.5 2.5 1.0 Polyquaternium-77 0.5 — — 0.5Silcare ® SEA 0.5 — 0.5 — 0.3 Cosmedia ® Guar C261 — — — 0.4 —Polyquaternium-71 0.5 — 0.5 — 0.1 Polyquaternium-74 — — 0.3 — 0.2 DowCorning ® 949 — — — 0.5 — Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl 0.5 — 0.5 0.5 0.5laurylglucoside Bis-(Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline) 2.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 1.0isostearamide Benzophenone-4 — 0.5 0.8 0.8 — Titanium dioxide 0.2 — —0.2 0.8 Vanillic acid 2.0 2.0 — 0.5 — Mandelic acid — — 0.3 2.0 0.3Isopropyl myristate 0.4 — 0.4 — — Panthenol 0.5 0.5 0.8 0.5 0.5 DC ®200, 60,000 cSt 0.3 — 0.2 — — Cetiol ® C5 1.0 — 0.3 0.3 — Dicaprylylcarbonate 0.3 — 0.3 0.3 — Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Water,perfume and preservative to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100The pH values of all formulations were set to 4.5 to 5.8.

All thickening agents or thickening agent systems known to the personskilled in the art in surfactant systems can be used as the thickeningagent. Celluose ethers, xanthan gums, hydroxyethylcelluloses, Laureth-2and Laureth-3, for example, as well as the products available under thetrade name Antil® or Crothix®, for example, can be used particularlyadvantageously in the aforementioned formulations, in each case eitherindividually or in mixtures with one another.

While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in theforegoing detailed description of the invention, it should beappreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also beappreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments areonly examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability,or configuration of the invention in any way. Rather, the foregoingdetailed description will provide those skilled in the art with aconvenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment of theinvention, it being understood that various changes may be made in thefunction and arrangement of elements described in an exemplaryembodiment without departing from the scope of the invention as setforth in the appended claims and their legal equivalents.

What is claimed is:
 1. A hair treatment agent including—relative to itsweight— a) 0.01 to 15 wt. % of a fatty acid amide according to formula(I)

in which R1, R2 and R3 independently of one another denote a linearbranched or unbranched C6 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, and n and mindependently of one another denote integers from 1 to 10, and b) atleast one UV filter in a total amount from 0.01 to 15.0 wt. %, relativeto the total composition.
 2. The hair treatment agent according to claim1, further including at least one quaternary ammonium compound in atotal quantity of 0.1 to 15.0 wt. % selected from the group consistingof cationic surfactants of formula (Tkat1)

in which R¹, R², R³ and R⁴ in each case mutually independently denotehydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated,branched or unbranched alkyl residue with a chain length of 8 to 30carbon atoms, which may optionally be substituted with one or morehydroxyl groups, and A denotes a physiologically acceptable anion, forexample halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates, and/oresterquats and/or at least one compound of general formula (bI)

in which n and m mutually independently denote integers between 5 and40, providing that n+m≧38, a and b mutually independently denoteintegers between 1 and 10 and optionally the equation a+2≧b≧a−2 applies,R and R′ are mutually independently selected from —H and —CH₃, such thateither PEG or PPG diesterquats are used, X⁻ is a physiologicallyacceptable anion, at least one compound of formula (bII)

in which x denotes 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24, at least one quaternaryimidazoline of formula (bIII),

in which the residues R mutually independently in each case denote asaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon residue with achain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A denotes a physiologicallyacceptable anion, poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium) compounds,Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, cationizedhoney, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and the copolymersthereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid,copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives ofdialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate,vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, quaternizedpolyvinyl alcohol, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-7,Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18,Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-69, Polyquaternium-74, a polymericalkyl oligoglucoside of formula

in which R denotes a linear or branched C₆ to C₃₀ alkyl or aldenylresidue, R² denotes a linear or branched C₆ to C₃₀ alkyl or alkenylresidue, and A⁻ denotes a physiologically acceptable anion, anoligomeric alkyl oligoglucoside of formula

in which R¹ denotes a linear or branched C₆ to C₃₀ alkyl or alkenylresidue, R² denotes a linear or branched C₆ to C₃₀ alkyl or alkenylresidue, and A⁻ denotes a physiologically acceptable anion, andPolyquaternium-71.
 3. The hair treatment agent according to claim 1,further including at least one silicone compound.
 4. The hair treatmentagent according to claim 3, characterized in that the silicone compoundis selected from amino-functional silicones.
 5. The hair treatment agentaccording to claim 1, further including camitine.
 6. The hair treatmentagent according to claim 1, further including a purine.
 7. The hairtreatment agent according to claim 1, further including ectoine.
 8. Thehair treatment agent according to claim 1, further including at leastone ubiquinone.
 9. A method for treating keratinic fibers, including:applying the hair treatment agent according to claim 1 onto thekeratinic fibers and, after a period of exposure of a few seconds up to45 minutes, rinsing out the hair treatment agent.